2008/09/12 06:43:39.742 GMT+2

Desertuko Hiri Sortzailea

Desertuko Hiri Sortzailearen zeruaren azpian...Zer dago? Ez dago pabesik. Gauez eta egunez, ezta kalerik ere ez. Ondar eta izarrak soilik, ez besterik. empty dessert 0

48.000 pertsona iristen diren arte. Orduan eraikitzen baita zazpi egunetan jarraian, kalez, etxez eta giza-bizitzaz, behin-behinekoa eta artifiziala den Desertuko Hiri Sortzailea: AEBko Black Rock City-a (Burning Man 2008).

 

Ez gara ari, Tokyo, Reykjavik, Helsinki, Bilbo, Manchester, Dublin, San Francisco, Berlin edo Donostiari buruz...Desertuko Hiri Sortzaileari buruz ari gara. Eta zer den hau? Duela 23 urte San Francisco hirian, konkretuki Baker Beach hondartzan 20 pertsonekin hasi zen esperientzia bat: Sortzaileen auzolanaren bidez, heuren auto-espresioa praktikan jartzeko komunitate bat osatzea izan zen lehen helburua. Horretarako, “Burning Man” bezalako ikono humanista sortu zuten (“Pertsona Sutsu edo Bizia” bezala itzul genezake esanahiez). Eta zein den honen funtsa? Pertsona bere osotasunean harturik, inongo erlijio, etnizitate edo sinismen sistemetatik at, zazpi egunetan, komunitate ireki batean, beste pertsona guztiekin elkarrekintzan, sortzen den esperientzia egituratzea. Urteen poderioz, esperientziaren egituraketa, hiri baten forma hartu du. 20 pertsonekin hasi 1986an San Francisco-n eta handik bost urtetara Nevada-ko Black Rock Dessert-era mugitu zuten ekitaldi guztia gaurdaino. Partehartzaileen kopurua hazten joan da urtetik urtera. Aurten 48.000 lagun izan gara.

Hala ere, zer den azaltzea ez da ez, ariketa makala. Ez baitago hitzekin adieraztea, esperientzia bizitzen ezpada. Antolatzaileek Wikipedian oso garbi diote: “Ekitaldia honela deskriba liteke: Milaka partehartzaileren auto-espresio erradikalena azaleratzen duen komunitate baten esperimentoa. (...) Inoiz egon ez den pertsona bati, Burning Man-a zer den azaltzea, itsu bati kolore zehatz bat esplikatzen saiatzea bezain neketsua izan daiteke. Oso zaila. Esperientzia bizi behar da. Bestela ezin da berari buruz iritzirik osatu edota epaitu ere ez.”

 

0.- Beti Mugan: Gauan, desertuaren bihotzera iritsi gara.

Atzo gauen iritsi ginen, berandu. Linterna eta sekulako zarata artean, karabana eta kanping denda eraiki genituen, desertuaren erdian. Izarrak goian (handi-handiak) eta hondarra behean (hauts arnasezina!). Ez genekien zer gertatzen ari zen hor, baina sekulako burrunba zegoen kanpoan. Hala ere, gomendatu zigutena egin genuen guk: Maskara eta betaurreko bereziak jantzi. (…) Nere baitan pentsatzen nuen bitartean: “Irudikatuko beharko banu, esango nuke, ilargian festa bat antolatu dela eta erdi-erdian nagoela”.

Karabanan sartu eta Utah-ko Duke-ek gitarra akustikoa gerturatu dit: “Someone told me, you were from the Basque Country…and a songwriter…Hi man, play it something for us, please”. Gure betiko hondarribitarren, aproposa iruditu zait.

(Yankee hauei gustatu zaie antza.)

Denbora geldian, hona iritsi gara, desertuko bihotzera.

Gu, Beti Mugan, beti.DSC02324

 

1.- Good Morning: Zer zara USA?

Esnatu gara. Goiz oso goiz. Goizeko 6:10ak izango dira. Sekulako eguzkia hor parean, zeru oskarbi eta mendilerro horren gainean. Begiak ondo ondo ireki, kanpoan, egun argiz, dutxa hotza hartu, desertuko berotasunean biziki eskertzen dena bestalde. Zer da hau???!!! Nondik hasi deskribapena??? Kanpamentu oso bat, basamortuaren erdi erdian. Bizikletak hartu ditugu eta bizkarrean “biziraupenerako zorroa”: Ura, betaurreko eta maskara bereziak (hondarrerako), linterna, eguzkitako krema eta betaurrekoak, 2$ (espresso-rako) eta mapa. Bai, mapa. Desertua, 48.000 partehartzaileekin batera “okupatu” eta hiri baten egitura eman diogu, guztien artean: Kaleak, jarduerak, bizikletak, MadMaxen bezala, edozein tankeradun motorrezko ibilgailu,…Guztia, zentru bat (Burning Man-a bertan dago kokatua) eta inguruan zentrokideak diren hamar kaleetan egituratuta. 24 orduz, giza-ekintzarako edozein motatako jarduerak aldi berean gertatzen ari direlarik: Umeei zuzenduak, tailerrak, ikastaroak, suarekin burutako erakustaldiak, gorputzerako lagungarriak diren tratamentuak, ekitaldiak (musika, dantza, antzerki, txotxongilo,…), zine eta ikus-entzunezkoak, erritual eta zeremoniak, festak eta elkarretaratzeak…

Hasi gara, kaleetatik “galtzen”. Eta txundituta, jakina, galdu gara guztiok. Bakoitzak bere bidea hartu du. (“Aurkituko gara gure kanpamentuan gero”, pentsatu du gutariko bakoitzak. Gaitzerdi beraz).

Ez da ez, basamortuko liluraren ondorioa. Benetakoa da. Bai. 4 orduz galdu naiz: Izugarria. Eta pentsatu dut nere baitarako: “Pertsonei, sortzeko askatasuna ematen zaienean, honakoa bezalako ingurune ireki eta aske batean, gai dira irudimen mugagabea praktikara eramateko. Horretarako balio badu, giza-esperimento lez...Hemen lortu dute, bederen”. Bai, hala da. Zihurrenik, gauzarik garrantzitsuena Desertuko Hiri Sortzaile honetan, bertan dauden 48.000 gizabanakoen sorkuntza, irudimen eta talentua dira. Zertan adierazten diren? Erantzuna mugagabea litzateke. Edozer gauzetan. Gauza bat garbia da: Pertsonen sormena, bere berezko grinarekin dago erkatua. Noski, inongo grinarik ez duen pertsonak eta ikusle hutsek, hemen ez dute lekurik topatuko.

(Orduan datorkit burura, donostiar bezala, nere hiriaz diotenaz –are gehiago orain Europako Hiritartasunaren gaia pil-pilean dagoela- alegia, ikusle-hiri bat dela. Eta hein handi batean ados nago. Agian, honako “esperimento” honetatik gauzak ikasi eta gurera eraman beharko genituzke.)

Hemen dena da ekintza. Dena da, “norberak nahi duena, EGIN”.

(Bapatean, bizikleta gelditu eta aurrean dudan kanpamentuaren aurreko bozgorailuetatik, banda baten jam session baterako, bateria jole baten bila dabiltzala entzuten dut. 10 segundutan, eszenatokira igo eta hasi naiz beste 5 kidez osatutako bandan, oinarri erritmikoaren funtzioan.)

Honelakoxea da guztia. Gau eta egun.

 

2.- Egin!: Giza-partehartzea egunez eta gauez.

Inor ez dago hemen geldirik. Zerbait izatekotan ekitaldi partehartzaile interaktibo bezala defini genezake. Autoespresioa, komunitatea, auzolana, talentua eta sormena eta norbanakoaren askatasuna izaki, artifizialki sortutako ikono humanista eta agnostiko hau gurtzeko baloreak. Gizakia da gurtzen dena, horretarako sortua espreski “Burning Man” ikonoa, nonahi 7 egunotan. Ziurrenik guzti honen abiapuntua, espreski San Francisco-n, hippie mugimenduaren ostean (eta agian Jack Keroauc, Janis Joplin eta gainontzeko kideen eraginez), 1.986ean Haight-Ashbury auzune ezaguneko kafetegi bat izango zen.

Burning Man-era dihoazen partehartzaileak nahi dutelako dihoaz bakarrik. Beraz, ez da inor, gusto txarrez edota sarrera “garestia” ordaindu eta gero (bai sarrera esan dut, zehazki 295$), partehartzera ez dihoanik. Hori du ona, ekitaldi %100 partehartzailea da. Eta partehartzearen kontzeptua da agian miresgarriena. Askatasun osoko giro batean burutzen baita: Basamortuaren erdi-erdian. Ezer ez dagoen lekuan. Eta bertan, nahi duzuna egin dezakezu. N-A-H-I D-U-Z-U-N-A 2-4 O-R-D-U-Z. Hori da leloa.


3.- 24 Ordu: Egunak ez du etenik.

“Zergatik galdetzen dit jende guztiak zein ordu den?” Harrituta galdetzen diot bilbotar lagunari. Erantzuna bistakoa da, ostera (!). “Ordularia daraman bakarra hemen zu zarelako!”. Glup! Egia da. Ze ordu den axola al du hemen? Jakina ez. Jendea, sekulako programa mardularen barruan, koordenada konkretu batean (I-mpala eta 12:30ak, adibidez) dagoen ekitaldi zehatz baten bila dihoanean soilik, jakin gura du, zein ordu den. Bestela, orduak ez du garrantziarik.

Giza-konplexutasun handiko sare bat da hiri sortzaile hau. Gizabanakoak bere modua topatzen du batetik bestera ibiltzeko: Bizikletan, ibilgailuetan, korrika, oinez,...Eta jantziak...Denetarik. Tolosako Iñauteriak datozkit burura. Txarangarik ez ordea hemen. Baina bai, sofa karrerak, patinatzeko diskoteka, irrati erraldoi bat, itsasuntzi formako autobusak, telefono-kotxea,...Eta partehartzaileek, urte oso bateko lana hartu dute, prestaketetan egundoko muntaiak antolatu eta guztia desertuaren erdian eraikitzeko. Eta guztia, hain juxtu, hondarraren gainean jarrita. Irudikatu zenezakete entxuferik gabeko hondarraren gainean, hiri bat. Ba horrela da.

Ukondoa handitu egin zait, eguzkia eta beroa agian. Hasi naiz, mapan, hiri honen zerbitzu amankomunak bistatzen. Bai, ba dago “Medical Center” deitzen den zerbait. Nere txanda itxoin (bitartean ikuskatzen egon naiz hango antolakuntza sistema) eta mediku nahiz bere talde guztiak oso ondo hartu naute. Han eserita nengoela, zai, munduko bandera asko eskegita zeudela ikusi dut (ikurrina, gure karabanan, jarri dugu). Nere baitan pentsatzen jarri naiz: “Iparamerikar hauek izugarriak dira: Ospitale oso bat, zertzelada guztiekin, gai dira honelako ekitaldi baterako bada...eta iragan asteburuan San Francisco-ko Market St.-en ikusi nituen `homeless´ horien kargu hartzeko inor ez. Sozialki, kontraste tamalgarrien USA da hau. Munduko onena eta aldi berean, okerrena ere egiteko gauza den USA.”  

homeless


Sekulako antolakuntza. Izugarria. Gero, ohartu nintzen, Euskadi Irratitik deitu behar zutela nere mugikorrera elkarrizketa bat zuzenean egin asmoz. Eta segidan ohartu, internet edo-ta mugikorren estaldurarik ez zegoela han. Center Camp-era joan eta han esan didate, aukera bat nuela dei hori egin nahi izan ezkero: Black Rock Dessert guztian zegoen satelite bidezko telefono bakarra aurkitzea zen erronka. Hasiera batean, gaizkiulertu bat zela pentsatu dut, baina birritan galdetu ostean, satelite bidezko telefonoa benetako kontua zela baieztatu didatenean, haren bila jarri naiz. Nere kabutarako: “Satelite bidezko kabina bakarra desertu oso batean…Non arraio egongo da?...Nolakoa izango da?...Jende mordoa egongo da zai!” Gaua da dagoeneko. Eta ni, kabina bat bilatzen desertuan. 2 ordu pasa naiz eta kabinaren arrastorik ere ez. Baina bapatean, helbidearekin bat zetorren, kabina formako, zerbait 100 metroetara. Eta ilara bat, motza, hiruzpalau pertsona. Hondarraren gainean jada, bizikleta eskutan eta nekea hanketan. Zarata eta algara da nagusi. Ez naiz ohartu ere egin, baina bilaketan nengoen bitartean, gaua egin da. Iluna. Desertua, izarrak eta gaua. Baina ez dago ilun:

Argiak nonnahi, musika eta zarata. Gaua da eta Desertuko Hiri Sortzaileko 48.000 partehartzaileak gauari ongi etorria emateko prest.

Eta gerturatu naiz bai: Kabina bat da! Eta benetakoa. Jendeari bistadizo azkar bat eman eta itxoitearen planta dutela ohartzen naiz. Bitan pentsatu gabe galdetzen diot aurrean dudan bikoteari: “Zai zaudete?”.”Bai”-erantzuna. “Barka, benetako kabina al da hau? Deitu daiteke?”.”Jakina! Eta dohakoa da gainera! Antolatzaileek jartzen dute, emergentziazko deiak egiteko. Baina jendea ez dago deitzeko irrikitan. Ez da etorri hona, telefonoz bere lagunei deitzera...Bai noski, funtzionatzen du”-erantzuna. “Bai?! Kontua da, nik Euskal Herrira deitu behar dudala...eta noski hori nazioarteko deia da! Ez dut uste posible izango dudanik zuek bezala AEB barrurako deiak izango baitira, ezta?”-galdetzen dut, Afrikako Sahararen erdi erdian telefono kabina bat aurkituko lukeen gameluaren aurpegi berberarekin. Eta erantzuten didate: “Gizona, baietz! Eta dohanik deituko duzu, nahi duzun denbora adina! Oraintxe telefonoan ari den hori, Hegoafrikako Johannesburgo-rekin ari da hizketan. Eta lehenago Tokyo eta Reykjavik-era deitu dute ere!!! Arazo barik! Euskal Herria hain urruti egonda ere...Non dago hori?”. Iparamerikarrak ez dira lehenak izan inoiz, heuren geografiatik at geratzen den beste guztia ezagutzeko. Are gutxiago, bere mapetan ez bazaude. Bai, azaldu diot, non gauden mapamundian. Azkenean bai, ezagutzen omen zuen ere. Gaitzerdi.

Euskadi Irratiko elkarrizketa arazorik gabe joan da.



Bukaera aldean, inguruan zai zeuden burnerrak ere ez dira hasi ba algaraka eta txalotuz. Eskegi ostean, zein hizkuntzan hitzegin dudan jakinmina ere sortu zaie. 

Balio izan du gestioak behintzat, gure esteka, norbaitzuren mapa (mentalean) behintzat kokatzeko. Herrigintzarako urrats ttipia ote hau?


4.- Goodnight: Zer gertatu zaizu USA?

Gaua igaro da. Ez dakit zer ordu den. Begiratu eta gaueko 4:30ak dira. Lo-egiteko zakuan, literna piztu eta Moleskinea ateratzen dut. Gogoetak borborka. Apuntatzen dut:

“Izugarria, esperientzia, giza-laborategi bat da. Baina benetakoa. Inongo tabu eta aurreiritzirik gabe. Jendea partekatzeko prest dago, ezerren truke. Bestearen grina eta sormena azaleratzea da gakoa hemen. Norbanakoaren askatasuna bermatzen duen giroa eta azpiegitura zabala eta irekia; sormena azaleratu dadin bere milaka formetan. Seguruenik, AEB, munduko potentzia orainarte izan bada, R. Florida autoreak dioen bezala, horrexegatik izango da: Nahastuta, bere baitan duen kultur-aniztasuna, norbanakoaren askatasunaren ideiarekin mizturan, sormenerako sekulako bi aurrefaktore ezinbesteko dira. Eta hori herrialde mailan, sekulako lehiarkotasunerako abaintaila.

//Guk, gure Euskal Herrian, agian falta duguna. Oso ohituak gaude, kolektibismora eta hori oso onuragarria da benetako bizitza komunitarioa mantentzeko baina aldi berean oso kaltegarria, ezberdintasuna eta ideien aniztasunari erreparatu eta hauei bide emateko. Norbanakoaren askatasun gehiago beharko genuke gurean, geroz eta kultur-aniztasunerako aukera gehiago edukiko dugunean, biak nahastuta, herrigintza berri bat egiten hasteko. Hirigintza, baina zentzu sozio-kulturalean, ez fisiko-arkitektonikoan. Euskal Hirigintza bat.//

Baina, ez ote da guzti hau, hor kanpoan, desertu honetatik at, dagoenaren lortu ezinezko amets moduko bat. Zergatik ez ditut ikusten hemen Burning Man honetako Hiri Sortzaile honetan, San Francisco-ko Downtown-ean kalean ikusten ditudan, beltzak, latinoak, asiarrak edo-eta errusiarrak?

Ez ote dute behar agian, iparamerikar hauek (eta baita mundu guztitik etorri direnak, baina paramentro sozio-kultural berberetan aurkituko genituzken partehartzaileak), mikromundu komunitario hau sortu, heuren indibidualismo, gizarte materialista/kontsumista eta afektibitate urriko bakardade desertiko pertsonal horiek, 7 egunez, ahaztu eta beraien arimak beste zerbaitetaz betetzeko?

Hor kanpoan, bizitza errealean,Burning Man-a, Obama ote? Askorentzat hala dirudi. Obama, esperantza, aldaketa, miraria,...Edonon dago. DSC01532

Baina, AEBko arazoa, eredu kapitalista neoliberalaren porrota ez ote da? Jasangarria al da eredua? Ez ote gaude jada, eredu horren krisiaren atezuan? Non dago eredu honen giza-aurpegia? Ba al du? Burning Man, ez ote, mundu errealaren teatralizazioa eta karikatura benetakoa?

Zer gertatu zaizu USA? Zer zinen eta zer zara?”


941116772_1b05d3edf7_m

5.- Erre: Eta gero? Hemen ere ikasi dute? Han ere ikasi dugu?

Iritsi da momentua. 48.000 pertsonak esplanada handira goaz. Hiriaren erdigunera, “Burning Man”-a dagoen lekura. Zazpi egunen ostean, azken egunean, guztia, egin eta gertatu dena, erretzeko. 

Eta apuntatzen dut, “Burning Man”-a erretzen ari den bitartean:

“Zer ikasi dute guzti honetatik iparamerikarrak?” Guztion hobebeharrez, espero dut zerbait ikasi izana.

”Eta guk, Euskal Herrian, ikasi dugu zerbait, gurean, dagoeneko?” Gure hobebehar soilagatik bederen, baiezko erantzuna irudikatu nahiko nuke.


6.- Gu, Beti Mugan: Betiko.

Bukatu da, aurtengoa.

Etxera goaz, irratia entzuten. (Beti Mugan berriro kotxeko irratian, desertuko gaua atzean utzita. Orain ez dut dudarik kantuarekin:

Hemen edo han, Gu, Beti Mugan.

Agur bero eta sutsu bat, AEBtik, (eraikitzear dagoen) Euskal Hiriari.


(2008ko Iraileko GARAko Gaur8n argitaratua)

Posted by: icalzada.2008/09/12 06:43:39.742 GMT+2
Tags: selfexpression igor community gara interaktiboa city dessertic burning usa calzada creativity creative black 8 komunitatea participation dessert social diary autoespresioa obama talent gaur medias aeb man rock auzolana 2008 partehartzea | Permalink | Comments (37) | References (0)

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